Understanding the principles still leaves the question of what to actually do in a real hand. This page walks through three concrete boards: what you hold, why firing works there, how much to bet, and what to do when you get raised.
For how much fold equity a bluff needs to be profitable, and how the threshold moves with bet size, see why bluffing works.
- ✓Dry boards are the best place to fire, because your opponent can rarely claim to have hit anything.
- ✓The semi-bluff is what beginners should practise first: when the bluff fails you still have outs.
- ✓On the river, ask what hand your line represents. If you cannot name one, do not bet.
- ✓Decide what you will do against a raise before every bluff; with no answer, check instead.
- ✓When your opponent will not fold, no board is worth bluffing.
Hand one: a continuation bet on a dry flop
You open on the button with A♥K♦ and the big blind calls. The flop is 8♠5♣2♦.

You have missed completely, and this is still one of the best boards to fire on. Three low cards, no flush, no connection: a player who called your preflop raise is usually holding overcards or a middle pair, and this flop has not helped him either.
A third of the pot is enough. By the break-even maths, this size only needs him to fold about 25% of the time, and on this board that bar is easy to clear. That is exactly why continuation betting works.
You are also not drawing dead: the ace and the king can still pair. Even when you are called, you have six outs.
Hand two: a semi-bluff with outs
You call in the cutoff with J♠9♠, the flop comes A♠7♠3♦, and the big blind checks to you.

You have jack high at the moment, but you also hold a flush draw with nine spades left. This is the textbook semi-bluff spot.
Bet about two thirds of the pot. The size does two jobs: there is an ace on the board, so an opponent without one struggles to continue and you take the pot down immediately; and if you are called, you still have roughly a 35% chance of completing the flush over the next two cards.
Both branches have value, and that is what makes a semi-bluff safer than a pure one. The fold rate it needs is far below the threshold a pure bluff has to clear.
Hand three: a pure bluff on the river
The flop is K♠9♥4♦, you bet from the button and get called. The turn is 2♣, you bet again and get called again. The river is A♥.
You hold J♣T♣ — a straight draw that never got there, and now nothing at all.
This is one of the few spots worth a pure bluff, and the reason is that your line represents a real hand. You have fired from the flop through to the river and an ace has just landed; you can credibly represent AK for two pair, or even pocket aces for a set. An opponent holding a middling king finds it very hard to call.
Two conditions have to hold: your opponent must have something he can fold (having called twice, he usually holds a medium hand), and he must not be the type who never lets go of a pair.
This kind of bluff has to be large. There are no outs left on the river, so you need him genuinely to fold; a small bet just makes calling cheap.
When not to bluff
All three hands rest on the same assumption: your opponent can fold. Drop the idea entirely in these cases.
- Multiway pots. Everyone has to fold for you to win, and the probabilities multiply. Even at a 60% fold rate each, three opponents all folding comes to only about 20%.
- Calling stations. Some players simply will not let go once they have a piece; against them the answer is value betting.
- Wet boards. On a board full of draws, your opponent has far too many reasons to continue.
- You cannot say what you are representing. This is the most practical check of all: if you cannot name the hand your line looks like, your opponent probably cannot see one either.